| Began simmering the hake bones, tail and head for soup tomorrow. We were concerned that it would stink up the apartment so were pleasantly surprised that the aroma is really quite nice. The spin cycle of the washing machine in our apartment doesn't thoroughly wring out the clothes so, with the rainy conditions it takes a couple days to dry on the portable, folding drying rack (a great household item that we have tried, in vain, to locate in the States since first discovering them at our Arteles residency in Hämeenkyrö, Finland back in 2012.). First thing in the morning we started another small load so we can keep on top of things. Jo broke out her paints, and paper in the tiny micro-studio she set up next to the washing machine. Not ideal conditions by any means but making do with what you have is all part of the artist residence experience. The forecast was for dry conditions until late afternoon/evening so we decided we should take another long walk, this time to the Ġgantija Temple built between c.3600 and c.3200 BC The narrow, and sometimes non-existent sidewalks on narrow streets where the locals zoom past (the "Speed Kills" signs on the road seem to have no impact) while minding one's step to avoid dog waste doesn't make for the most pleasant walking but, once we leave the city limits there is less traffic, less urban dog owners, and much more rewarding views. We have noted more than a few red dog waste receptacles stationed around town so it appears the local council is aware of the issue. Xagħra, the second largest town in Gozo with a population of around 5,000 is, sited atop a hill (a great defensive position). The road we walked into town featured very steep switchbacks that, in spite of intentional texturing of the concrete to increase traction, was rather slick. Nearing the top there was a cemetery that we would have enjoyed exploring but restrained our curiosity in deference to someone paying respect to their loved one. Not much further up there is a beautiful area with a stele with religious image, a plaque commemorating a bicentennial in Maltese language (1818-2018) and gorgeous vistas of the Sea and the countryside. Xagħra's Victory Square is anchored by the Basilica of the Nativity of Our Lady. It seems that many, perhaps most Gozo squares are centered around a predominant church. We lunched on a couple savory pastries purchased from a nearby snack shop but found that didn't meet the high standard set by the ones we enjoyed from Sphinx Pastizzeria in Valletta. Without planning, we came upon Ta'Kola Windmill and were informed that entry tickets valid for both attractions were only available at the Ġgantija Archaeological Park so we would need to come back after visiting there. The Ġgantija museum features rather astonishing artifacts demonstrating a level of artistic sophistication that we hadn't realized a Stone Age civilization was able to attain. The Temple grounds themselves, with 8 meter high exterior walls, and elaborate inner rooms reinforced this perception. Scaffolding has been put into place to prevent further collapses since the site was excavated in the 1800s. Several of the stones had holes drilled into them, some resembling the kind our door knobs and latches have. We were happy to have a carob tree identified via the tourist signs. Walking around the Temple to the main entrance Paul stopped to record rather raucous birds (starlings?) in a neighboring olive orchard. Before we got to the entrance a guided tour bus made their presence felt, swarming the site and interrupted our sense of what was once the location of sacred rituals. We waited them out and were relieved to hear their tour leader ask "are we ready?" before they shuffled off after a few more selfies in front of the monument. For a few brief periods we were actually alone in the Temple. Having secured the tickets good for both heritage sites we went back to the Ta'Kola Windmill, one of the few remaining windmills built during the reign of the Order of St. John. The last miller was living and working there until his death in 1987. The top had been reconstructed due to damage from a windstorm following the old plans but were clearly made recently. We decided to make our way to the Lord Chambray Brewery, the first and only craft brewer on the island in the nearby town of Xewkija. Just prior to beginning another very steep descent from Xagħra's hill we spied what we decided was a race track in the distance with a horse fitted with the small two wheeled sulky for harness racing going through it's paces. Nearing Xewkija we saw four small horse trailers on the street, one with a sulky tied to the back. A little further on we realized we were right next to the 1 km Xħajma Racetrack, the only facility on Gozo that serves as the main training ground. An internet search reveals that they also hold motocross events. At the eight-year old Lord Chambray Brewery we enjoyed a flight of tasters including Flinders Rose Gose, a very light and refreshing slightly sour flavored with native caper flowers; Sunny Trails, a wheat beer with lemon and mint; Honey Winter Ale made with local carob honey; and Manhattan, purported to be inspired by the cocktail but better than that sounds, flavored |
Back in Victoria ir-Rabat we hunted for some cheap, light-weight paper suitable for making rubbings with the red chalk Jo purchased the other day. We searched a stationers, food market, and home supply store before being advised to try Maypole - which didn't have the paper we wanted - but is a bakery and we came out with some warm, fresh ftira bread. We gave up on our hunt but were content to have found a nearby source for bread. Just before reaching the apartment Jo decided to check a book store that turned out to have a fair range of different types of paper, one type was suitable for rubbings and she purchased 30 cents worth.