| Around 4:00 AM Jo noticed that the power was out. We weren't sure if it was local to our apartment or more generalized as there were some periods of strong rain last night. Everything in our apartment is electric. The early morning trip to the bathroom was with slow steps and arms outstretched until the phone flashlight was located. Jo sent a message to the owner of building via Whatsap (apparently a necessary upload if you want to communicate here) after the morning traffic sounds let us know it was getting to be time for the day to begin and shortly after we heard someone in the public hallway/stairs click a switch and for a brief moment we had power. About half a minute later another switch was tripped from another part of the building and our energy was fully restored. We decided we had to take advantage of the clear day as the rest of the week the forecast is wet. Some internet research and plotting some destinations on Google Maps we had our route uploaded to our phones. We purchased a Sim card for Jo's phone so it is fully functional, took the Sim card out of Paul's to avoid international charges but, with WiFi available he may still utilize it for more than just a camera. As Jo's phone ran out of power the day before while navigating and picture taking we decided that Paul would serve as navigator on the first part of our trek and Jo would on the second part. To doubly guarantee our digital maps would be powered Jo utilized the Nikon SLR while Paul was a bit conservative on his shots, with the old Pentax in reserve. There is a relief when our pathway turned onto less well-used streets as the cars go fast and perilously close to narrow if non-existent sidewalks. Not sure if it is due to the effect of the fumes being intensified by slot canyons of row buildings on either side or if the exhaust output regulations are somewhat lax but the noxious smells spewed by the vehicles speeding past are severe. Or, perhaps our perceptions are based in the novelty of walking along roadways, something we avoid in the States. The urban environment is delightfully interrupted by the verdant Lunzjata Valley, lush agricultural plots lined with ancient caves. A local Gozitan commented to Paul how beautiful it was and "this is the last beautiful place in Gozo because of all the building". P responded that we had noticed all of the construction going on and was corrected, "Not construction, building. They use concrete, not stone." He went on to point to a flat-topped span that was meant to be restored to its original arched state with limestone but, due to economics a simpler and cheaper material and method was utilized. We enjoyed the respite from roads on the narrow walkway and stairs out of the valley. Prickly pears are plentiful with fruit nearing harvest. We turned the corner at the top of our climb back onto streets, more suburban and rural with views of terraced fields, glimpses of the Mediterranean, sounds of chickens, and the ever present cats (Gozitans love cats as much as the Maltese). Smells alerted us of a dairy operation near houses before we reached an area solely dedicated to agriculture. Fields with stone fences and small stone huts (for shepherd's?) with vistas of stone cliffs and terraced fields. A plaque notated a EU funded project before a suddenly wide and smooth section of the road. Traffic, which had fallen off to no longer be a consideration, picked up again with large cement trucks, dump and hauling trucks that had to stop to let on-coming trucks pass as the road again narrowed and became bumpy and rutted. Cued by the Gozitan man at the Lunzjata Valley we expected to come upon a massive construction project. We stepped off the road up a drive to view a small duck pond and gained the attention of several chickens that followed us quite awhile down the road. As the road narrowed and worsened even more we were happy to follow a truck slowly picking its way down as it ensured we wouldn't have to deal with any coming towards us. A massive quarry revealed itself as the reason for all the trucks that were coming to resupply for building projects throughout the island. We turned off onto a walking path atop the cliff faces abutting the sea. Truly magnificent views on a beautiful day. The color of the water is an incredible blue. We passed by a popular site full of people taking short jaunts from the parking lot cars and tourist buses. Our trail turned once again to street as we looped back, through San Lawrenz and onto Ta'Dbiegi Crafts Village where we had a disappointing lunch of fish soup and a tuna fish version of a ftira sandwich, neither of which we are willing to consider prime examples of traditional cuisine. We had a 17:00 appointment with Francesco Grech of the Gozo Regional Council so we opted to finish our over 10 mile trek on the most direct, main road, passing some aqueduct ruins along the way. Arriving at the apartment there was a bag with some of the items we requested - Manuel is no Michele Ripper, our dear friend from Victoria (Australia) who knows how to properly kit out an AirBnB for people who cook - we went to a store to purchase a small cutting board (I don't understand the reason for glass cutting boards like the one provided in the apt) and a paring knife (the provided serrated bread knife and added steak knife don't really it cut it for chopping veggies). Thoroughly enjoyed our meeting with Francesco, a native Gozitan who lives part-time on Malta, who shared insights on Gozitan culture and suggested approaches for our artistic project. |